I solved this problem with the cables too, I think I solved it  because on all 2.1 D engines with Lukas Epic pump cables are in a broken state, it started to cause problems in my case in the form of restless idling, engine stalling.

The problem appeared for the second time yesterday, it wouldn't start, it would start for two seconds and then shut off, the same thing happened to me three months ago, it wouldn't start after about 10 attempts, it started and everything was normal, until yesterday when the same problem appeared, it would start for two seconds and then shut off.

So today's activity was in the form of replacing the wires and making a new cable for the pump, there is also a new one to buy, the price is 250 eu, this way the cost was 4 eu.

 

..here are some pictures of the work, maybe it will be useful to someone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

..the pictures show how bad the insulation and wires are.

 

 

The entire cable is in a decayed state, the insulation is cracked along its entire length, and the problem is that as the cable moves, a short circuit occurs somewhere and it starts to bypass the pump. Finally, yesterday the fuse for the relay that powers the ECU blew, which just made me laugh because I didn't know why the check engine light wasn't on.

 

.......replacing that fuse makes the check engine light come on again and at the same time the relay sends power to the computer

Bearbeitet (16. März 20251 J. von gasa)

Slowly disassemble the main cable connector to cut it into two parts, exactly along its line where it is assembled.

...first disassemble the connector, the top cover is easily removed and the entire mechanism disassembled.

 

 

.. and the insulation in the connector itself is crumbling.

Bearbeitet (16. März 20251 J. von gasa)

...unsolder all the wires on the pump, except for wires numbered 23 and 24, cut those wires a little longer and solder new wires to them, first put on some heat shrink tubing to provide some insulation, you can see in the picture that there is a resistor in that place and that the soldering point is very difficult, it's easier this way.

 

..leave these two wires.

...so you don't have to mess around and separate each wire one by one, this is the layout of where each wire goes, the first row of numbers are the numbers on the connector, those numbers, solder the wires to the numbers on the pump board.
So you can immediately cut the cable without worrying about which wire went where, this is the wiring diagram

 

...the pins from the connector are slightly pushed out of the plug, unsolder the old one and solder the new wire and put everything back in place, in the end it all looks like this, I also put a thermal bushing on the entire bundle of wires.

...at the end, glue the connector with two-component glue, and when it dries, remove the excess glue with a little sandpaper to make the snap mechanism work again.

...here you can see wires 23 and 24 which have been extended.

...in the end everything looks like this, after this intervention it worked immediately, it was a test drive all day and everything works great.
I used wire with a diameter of 0.75 and 1.0, two wires are of a larger diameter, blue in color.

 

 

This cable has to be purchased, the price is around 270 euros, I spent 4 euros on this wire arrangement and two hours of work.

 

Bearbeitet (16. März 20251 J. von gasa)

This is a cool story. I am a fan of the Lucas Epic, but I admit I never had broken cables until now. But who knows, maybe in near future.

..and the wires looked great with me, but if you move them just a little, the insulation starts to fall apart, simply with all Epic pumps the cables fall apart.

The only thing i would do differently is that I would use Silikon based wires (insulation) they withstand more thw vibration, heat and chemical environment. But hey, thanks for the manual - it reminds me a lot of my old car (w124)

..now it's not a problem to replace the wires again  🙂, it's just that the insulation quality is poor, yes, Mercedes also had that problem with the wires.